Home Depot Garden Center FAQ

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How do I navigate through the site?

What does a USDA Hardiness Zone represent?

How do I use Home Depot product numbers from plant tags on the site?

What is the "Multiple Zone" Possibility?

Can you explain what the search fields represent on the web site?

 
 

 

Site Navigation

Navigate our site by clicking on any icon at the top of the page. Here is a brief description of the different sections and the information you'll find there.

Contact Us: We welcome your comments, suggestions and questions. There are addresses, phone numbers and an online form so you can contact us. There's also a Store Locator to help you find the Home Depot nearest you.

Plant Encyclopedia: Search for information on a specific plant or a group of plants. Find your USDA Hardiness Zone and learn more about growing conditions in your area.

The Home Depot Logo: Go to the home page of homedepot.com to shop online, find step-by-step home improvement projects, or for company news and information.

Frequently Asked Questions(FAQs): Learn how to effectively use the site, find explanations of the search fields for the Plant Encyclopedia, and more.

Planting & Care Instructions: Get detailed instructions for planting, mulching, fertilizing and caring for all the grass, plants and trees in your landscape. Find out how to care for plants inside your home, too.

Specialty Pages: This section is loaded with information, including many charts to help you choose just the right combination of bulbs, annuals, perennials and groundcovers for your yard.


Search Field Explanations

There are several fields which you can use to search through our plant database to find detailed and specific information on any plant carried by Home Depot stores. Knowing what each of these fields means can greatly improve your search results.
  • Botanical and Common Names
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    Plant names have fascinated gardeners almost for as long as plants have. From the tongue twister botanical names to the sometimes whimsical common names, they all tell a tale based on fact and fancy.

    Botanical plant names are based on the worldwide method that uses a scientific binomial, or two scientific names used together. All flora and fauna in the world are named by scientists, biologists and botanists using this centuries old naming scheme. The language is based on Latin and Greek but has evolved somewhat to meet the needs of nurserymen the world over for their own use.

    The first part of the botanical name is the genus, which defines a certain group of plants which are similar. The way they are similar is their flower parts, not their overall appearance as many people think. The second part of the name is the species, a sub-group within the genus. A further distinction may be described by a variety name, identifying a feature that sets that variety apart from other plants of that same species.

    Here's an example: Ilex cornuta 'Burfordii' is the popular Burford Holly. Ilex is the genus, identifying that this is related to all the other Ilexes (hollies). Cornuta is the species, a sub-group of Ilex. Burfordii is the variety name, identifying a distinct plant that is slightly different from all of the other Ilex cornutas.

    Though some naming errors and disagreements exist within the trade, botanical names are at least based on a scientific method. This is not true with common names, which hold to no recognized convention. While botanical names are supposed to improve communication among horticultural professionals, common names are meant to identify plants among non-professionals. Anyone can name any plant anything, and it seems that they do. For example, Ilex cornuta 'Burfordii' may be called Burford Holly, Burfordi Holly or Burford's Holly, the most accepted of which is probably Burford Holly.

    Some plants have numerous common names, suggesting the plant's popularity in different parts of the country. For example, Lysimachia nummularia is properly called both Creeping Jenny and Moneywort.

    Common names can cause confusion, for a single common name may be used for two or more different plants. For example, "Coral Plant" can be Bessera elegans, Jatropha multifida, or Russelia equisetiformis. Then there is also a "Coral Tree" and a Coral Vine." This illustrates why nursery professionals tend to use botanical names when ordering or selling plants.

    Botanical names may be cumbersome to use, but they can eliminate confusion when knowledgeable gardeners get together.

  • Product Number
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    Number from the lower right corner of the attached tag on plants purchased from Home Depot.
  • Zip Code or Zone
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    A USDA Hardiness Zone Map number or your zip code(which is used to determine the zone) to eliminate plants based on their hardiness ratings. Using your zip code may return multiple possible zones from which you must choose a single zone to search by.

    NOTE: Zone and zip code cannot be used together in the same search

  • Drought Tolerant
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    Few factors are more important in establishing a successful garden than watering. Proper watering is perhaps the most important ingredient for success in growing and maintaining both house and landscape plants. This is especially true with new landscapes. But it is hard to know how much to water and when. The following section will help you understand and implement a good watering system.
    Drought tolerant plants are plants that are able to withstand extended periods of time with little or no supplemental water. They are able to survive on whatever natural rainfall is available. To take advantage of this benefit, it is best to group drought tolerant plants together, rather than mixing them with plants that need constant moisture. This prevents those plants that like the soil on the dry side from getting "wet feet".

    So what is proper watering? Many factors need to be considered in determining what is proper watering such as:

    • Soil type
    • Climate
    • Type of plant
    • Is it in the landscape or in a container
    • Is it newly planted or has it been established in the landscape for several years?
    • When is the best time to water

    Soil Type
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    Soil type can be grouped into three main categories, Clay, Sandy or Loam. The type of soil in your garden plays an important part in determining the type of plants to grow, as well as watering requirements.

    • Clay Soils. Also referred to as "gumbo" or "heavy" soils, clay soils are composed of microscopically small mineral particles. These particles are flat, fitting very closely together. This means that clay soils have the greatest amount of surface area per volume and contain the greatest volume of nutrients. However there is very little space in between the soil particles for air or water (called pore space). This means that when clay soils get wet, the downward movement or drainage of water is very slow. The advantage of this is soil nutrients are held in the soil longer in clay soils than in other types. The disadvantage is the soil can become waterlogged and roots can rot from lack of oxygen. Clay soils, once wet, stay wet longer than other soils. However, if they dry out, it is difficult to get the water deep down into the soil. The water tends to run off rather than soak in. Clay soils, can swing between two extremes, very wet and very dry.
      Soil Additives and Amendments such as peat moss, can improve water retention and drainage. Vermiculite and perlite are two other products available at all Home Depot Garden Centers which help create pore spaces and improve drainage. This helps to minimize the extreme wet or dry conditions often encountered when working with clay soils.
      Organic Matter is the decaying remains of once living plants and animals. It is vital to the fertility of any soil, particularly to clay and sandy soils. Added as a soil amendment, it improves clay soils by wedging between the tiny particles and creating larger pore spaces. This allows for better aeration and drainage. In sandy soils, organic matter helps fill the large pore spaces so that the soil can hold water and nutrients longer. This means that the soil remains moist and therefore does not have to be watered or fertilized as often. Saves water, saves time, saves your pocketbook.

    • Sandy Soils. Sandy soils contain relatively large particles that are cube shaped rather than flattened. Consequently, when they fit together, there are larger pore spaces in between, which allows for a faster downward movement or drainage of water through the soil. Another consequence of this faster drainage is that soil nutrients also leach out more quickly in sandy soils, than in clay soils. Therefore, plants in sandy soils will need watering and fertilizing more frequently than those in clay soil.

    • Loam. This type of soil contains a mixture of clay, sand and silt and has a healthy supply of organic matter. It is considered by many gardeners to be the ideal soil, with good drainage, enough pore space for adequate air to the roots, and moderate leaching of nutrients from the soil. A gardener with loamy soil is the envy of the garden club!

    Climate
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    Understanding climate is important in establishing proper watering habits. When speaking of climate as it relates to plants and watering, one should take into consideration: sun exposure, range of temperatures, humidity, rainfall, wind conditions.
    • Sun Exposure
      Watering requirements are greatly influenced by whether a plant is grown in sun or shade. Plants, like people, tend to dry out faster in full sun. And like people, need more frequent watering when in full sun. This includes plants that are located near sidewalks, south facing or light colored walls. Locating plants in areas where they are exposed to reflected heat does a lot to increase the amount of water they need.

      Plants in shade or in early morning sun tend to need less water, but they can also be more susceptible to fungal diseases which thrive in moist, more shaded areas.

      TIP: It is important to avoid wetting foliage in the evening, when there is insufficient time for the leaves to dry off before night time. It is equally important not to water in the full heat of the day. Water on the foliage can act like a lens and concentrate the sun's rays so intensely that the foliage can become extremely hot and burn.


    • Temperature
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      Plants in high temperature locations, particularly in full sun, generally need more frequent watering than those in cooler, milder, climates. Failure to provide adequate water under these circumstances causes serious plant stress such as wilted or drooping foliage and maybe leaf drop. Plants under stress are also more susceptible to pests and diseases. In hot climates, very careful attention must be given to plants in sandy soils which drain very quickly.

      In addition, high temperatures increase the temperature of the upper layer of soil to the extent that roots near the surface of the soil can be killed. Plants that are naturally shallow rooted, or those that have become so due to improper watering, are very susceptible to this danger. If they are not well watered at planting time and throughout the high temperature seasons, they can be here today and gone tomorrow.


    • TIP: It is very important that established plants are watered deeply, but infrequently. This encourages roots to grow downward, deep into the soil and causes the plant to become more drought tolerant. Watering in this manner creates a plant that is better equipped to handle tough situations. Light, frequent watering encourages shallow root development and a dependence on supplemental watering. This type of plant will need constant attention.

      Watering can also be affected by cold temperatures. Every plant has a low temperature danger point. This is when the plant is exposed to low temperatures for a period of time that causes tissue damage or death. How long the cold temperatures last, and how quickly the temperature drops determine how severe the damage to the plant is. If the plant is under stress due to lack of water, it is more susceptible to cold injury.

      TIP: Water plants well before a coming freeze. Plants that are under stress from inadequate water are more susceptible to injury from cold temperatures.


    • Humidity
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      In areas of the country where the humidity is low, the rate of evaporation can be extremely rapid. Close attention should be paid to plants in the landscape, particularly container plants during times of high heat, intense sunlight and low humidity. They tend to dry out quickly. Rainfall evaporates more quickly in areas with low humidity, so that little of the rain water may actually sink down deeply into the soil.

      In areas with high humidity, moisture tends to stay in the air and the soil longer. Although this decreases the need for watering, it increases the chances of certain diseases such as blackspot and mildew. Pay close attention to your plants for signs of stress such as: wilting, drying and curling of the foliage, brown leaf tips, leaf drop, change in color.


    • Rainfall
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      It certainly makes sense to take into consideration the amount of rainfall in your area in determining if there is a need for supplemental watering and when. It may also play a large role in deciding what plants to include in the landscape. Many plants may be included or totally excluded just on this issue alone. Since high temperatures and low humidity can cause the moisture from a rainfall to evaporate quickly, do not be fooled by a rainshower and immediately assume that supplemental water can be curtailed.

      TIP: To decide when to water after a rainfall, dig down into the soil to see how far the moisture has penetrated. In many cases, it has only dampened the surface. Install a rain gauge to accurately measure how much water is entering the ground.


    • Wind
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      Wind can dry out plants in a very short period of time, particularly when combined with high temperatures. Therefore, in windy areas, more watering is required. This again underscores the importance of deep, infrequent watering, to develop a deep root system. It allows the roots to draw water from a larger, deeper area of moisture in the soil. In addition, a deep, extensive root system, developed from proper watering, helps support the plant so that it is not blown over during periods of high winds.

    Watering New vs. Established Plants
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    Watering new plants is different than watering established plants. The plant has not yet developed a deep or extensive root system so it is critical that water gets right down into the rootball, and that the roots remain moist, not wet, until well established. Any prolonged dry period may adversely affect root development and subsequent plant growth. The more shallow the root system, the more frequent the need for watering.

    TIPS: Use drip irrigation to get moisture right down to the roots. In the alternative you can create a well around the plant to prevent run-off and allow the water to soak deeply into soil. A water well is a ridge of soil several inches high formed around a plant.

    Plants that have established themselves in the landscape, have sent out new feeder roots that extend outwards at least as wide as the width of the plant. This circular area around the perimeter of the plant is called the dripline. It is important with established plants to water thoroughly around this outer dripline. However with new plants it is important to water very thoroughly, into the rootball and outward to the undisturbed garden soil.

    Plant Type
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    Watering is greatly affected by plant type. Whether the plant requires sun or shade, is drought tolerant or requires constant moisture, is deep or shallow rooted has a great impact on its water requirements. Therefore it makes sense to group together in the landscape, plants with similar water and cultural needs. It would be detrimental to good plant health to plant a cactus next to a rose, or a shade loving coleus next to a sun loving petunia. For example, by planting drought tolerant plants together, moisture loving plants together, and so on, you create an effective and water efficient garden. The plants will be less stressed and so will you.

    TIP: Plant "thirsty" plants where they can be shielded from drying summer winds. If possible locate in an area of the garden where there is easy water access since they will require more attention.

    Timing is Everything
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    Watering is best done early in the morning so that the foliage has time to dry off before night time. Foliage that remains wet during the evening hours is more susceptible to disease. This is particularly true with plants like roses which can be vulnerable to blackspot if the foliage is allowed to remain wet for an extended period of time, especially at night.

    It is also important to water when there is little or no wind. This is because when wind moves across plants, it draws water away from the leaf surface, drying out the foliage. If a sprinkler system is used on a windy day, water may be wasted spraying onto sidewalks or other unintended areas.

    Water Conservation
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    More and more gardeners are becoming aware of the need to conserve water. Consequently, there is increasing interest in collecting and recycling rainwater, planting more native and drought tolerant varieties and minimizing water thirsty varieties, adding soil amendments to improve soil structure and retain moisture, installing soaker hoses, and drip irrigation systems, keeping weeds at a minimum (as they rob moisture from the ornamental plants) and mulching. The list of creative ways to conserve water keeps growing.

    During seasons of abundant rainfall, watertight barrels or cisterns can be gathered to collect water which can later be used during times of low or no rain. Its not only water efficient, but free water is cost effective as well!

    Native and drought tolerant plants place less stress on water resources. They are well adapted to the cultural conditions of your area and are less likely to need the "pampering" that non-native plants require. They come prepared to withstand periods of low rainfall.

    Adding organic matter to amend the soil is one of the best ways to achieve the perfect balance between good moisture retention and good drainage. This is especially true with sandy soils which are very fast draining.

    Soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems are extremely water efficient. Since they function at or just under the soil surface, the water goes directly down to the roots and is not affected by blowing wind. Using these methods also minimizes fungal diseases by keeping the foliage dry.

    TIP: Keeping weeds under control is another way to conserve water. Weeds in the flower beds rob water from the desired plants and compete for other nutrients. An even, protective layer of mulch is great for keeping weeds under control.

    Mulching is one of the most effective and inexpensive ways to conserve water in the landscape. Any loose, organic matter spread over the soil surface is a mulch. Some examples are shredded or chipped bark, straw, leaves or sawdust. You can find just the type that fits your needs at any Home Depot garden center.

    The wonderful thing about mulch is that it performs several functions. A loose, even layer of mulch spread over the flower bed reduces moisture evaporation from the soil, reduces the growth of moisture stealing weeds, insulates the soil from drastic changes in temperatures, and keeps water and mud from splashing on the foliage, reducing the chance of fungal disease. It also adds a neat, elegant look to the landscape.

    TIP: Keep mulch several inches away from the main stem of the plant so the constant moisture does not cause stem rot.

    Watering Container Plants
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    Generally speaking, container plants require more attention than landscape plants. Since there is less soil to hold moisture, container plants dry out faster than plants grown in the ground. Therefore, they must be watered more frequently.

    In hot, windy areas you may have to water container plants more than once a day to replace moisture taken from the plant by heat and drying winds. If the weather is cool and overcast you may only need to water a few times per week or even less. You can simply stick your finger in the soil, and if it is dry beneath the surface, it is time to water. Or lift the pot after deep watering, then notice how light it becomes over time as it dries out. If you lift the pot and it is so light it nearly flies up in your face, it is probably time to water!

    To water thoroughly, apply water over the entire top surface of the soil, continue until it comes out of the bottom of the pot. This will ensure that the entire root ball has been watered, and will leach any harmful accumulated salts from the soil. However, do not allow the plant to sit in water that has accumulated in the bottom of the saucer since this could result in root rot.

    TIP: If the water flows out the bottom of the pot too quickly, check to see if the soil has pulled away from the sides of the pot and is simply running down the sides of the pot. In many cases, if a plant has not been adequately watered, the soil shrinks from the sides of the pot. If this is the case, either soak the plant in a tub of water until bubbles appear at the top of the water, or if this is not practical, plug the drainage holes and water until thoroughly saturated. Then remove the plug.

    May I Have a Drink of Water? Now?
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    When plants are stressed from lack of water, they tell you. Some of the first telltale signs of thirst are:

    • shiny leaves appear dull
    • green leaves turn blue or gray-green
    • leaf tips turn brown

    If not watered at this point, more drastic clues are given:

    • new growth wilts or droops
    • leaves curl
    • flower buds drop, flowers fade quickly
    • older leaves become brown, dry and fall off

    By the time you notice these symptoms, substantial damage has been done. Water must be given immediately if the plant is to survive. The better strategy, of course, is to be sensitive to the watering needs of your plant well before it gets to such a critical level.

    By knowing your soil type and climate, choosing drought tolerant plants where possible and grouping plants with similar water requirements together in the landscape, and using mulch to conserve moisture, you can not only have a water efficient garden, but one that will bring years of beauty and enjoyment to your life.

  • Exposures
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    Light in the proper amounts is essential for the proper growth of your plants. This information will help you utilize this aspect when selecting and growing your plants.

    Outdoor Plants
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    Exposure - A plant's preference for sun exposure is a key consideration in determining whether or not that plant will be successful in your landscape. It's important to match the plant's preference for sunlight with the sun exposure conditions that exist in your landscape.

    Here's how to make a good plant selection based on sun exposure in your landscape:

    • Observe the location where you wish to plant, and note the sun or shade conditions at various times of the day.
    • Compare your notes with the exposure preferences listed on this site.
    • Select plant varieties with exposure preferences that match the sun and shade conditions in your landscape.

    You will find the following exposures in the plant reference section of this site:

    • Sun - "Sun" means the plant needs at least six hours of direct morning and afternoon sun per day. Most blooming, fruiting and vegetable plants require full sun all day in order to produce plentiful flowers or fruit. Non-flowering "full sun" plants need sun all day in order to maintain their best foliage color and most compact form.
    • Partial Shade - "Partial Shade" indicates that the plant prefers only light, dappled sun or only three to four hours of direct sun per day, preferably in early morning or late afternoon. These versatile plants can often adapt to mostly sunny or mostly shady situations.
    • Shade - "Shade" means that the plant prefers no direct sun, but will often tolerate a few hours of light or dappled shade. Most shade loving plants will perform well in bright or light shade, while few will tolerate deep shade.
    • Full to Partial Sun - Full to Partial Sun plants grow equally well in either full sun or with a little shade. The Daylily is an example of this group.
    • Partial to Full Shade - Partial to Full Shade defines plants that tolerate full shade or can grow equally well with a little sun. The Hostas are an example of this group.
    • Sun to Shade - Sun to Shade describes plants, like most of the Hollies, which can grow equally well in a range of conditions from full sun to full shade.

    Exceptions to the "Rule"
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    Due to the wide range of growing factors effecting how plants grow, "full sun" means different things in different parts of the country. In the high humidity areas of southern Florida or southeastern Texas, full sun plants can take direct sun from sunup to sundown. In the more arid, hot areas of the U.S., such as around Phoenix, Arizona or El Paso, Texas, many "full sun" plants will need some protection during the hottest parts of the day. In general, plants in locations closer to the equator will need more sun protection and humidity than the same plants in northern gardens.

    Problem Solving Tips: How to diagnose sun/shade problems in the landscape:

    • Problem: New leaves are larger, softer and farther apart than the old leaves, and the stems look "stretched and thin."
      Tip: The plant is receiving less sunlight than what it was used to in the nursery. It should be transplanted to a spot with more sun, or overhead shade should be trimmed to allow more sunlight.
    • Problem: My flowering plant has few or no blooms where I planted it.
      Tip: If your flowering plant is a "full sun" plant, be sure it's getting at least 6 hours of sun per day. Other factors could be too much nitrogen fertilizer or poor watering methods.
    • Problem: My plants have quickly developed large tan blotches on the leaves.
      Tip: The likely problem is excess sun exposure, resulting in a condition called sunscald. A "partial shade" or "shade" plant will exhibit this condition if grown in full sun. The plant must be moved immediately to a shadier location or a large shrub or shade tree should be added to provide shade. Sometimes a "full sun" plant will develop shade tolerant foliage while it is being held in a retail nursery then will sunscald slightly when planted in the sun. The plant will usually outgrow this temporary condition; your Home Depot nursery professional can help you make this distinction.
    • Problem: My variegated plant seems to be losing its variegation.
      Tip: In general, variegated plants need a little more light than their green siblings do. If bright variegation has faded to a greenish color, this is a sure sign of a need for slightly stronger light.

    NOTE: It is important to understand that sun/shade preference is but one of the key factors in successful plant growth. Other factors, such as cold hardiness, soil type and watering methods should be considered in order for your landscape to flourish and provide the years of beauty and pleasure that you desire. Please refer to those areas of this guide for additional helpful information.

    House Plants
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    Growing plants indoors is not only a fun and relaxing hobby, but it is also a great way to fight indoor air pollution. Recent studies have shown that many of our common houseplants are useful in absorbing harmful gases and cleaning the air in our homes and offices. Formaldehyde, benzene and carbon monoxide have been found to be effectively removed from the air by living green plants. Add a few houseplants to your home or office to make the world around you a little cleaner and a more pleasant place to work and live.

    Light Level Considerations
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    The most limiting factor in indoor gardening is light intensity and duration, so understanding the quality of light in your interior decor is the first step towards developing an attractive indoor garden. Here's how to determine the type of light you have in your interior space as it relates to the selection of bright, moderate and low light tolerant plants:

    Window exposure and the plant's distance from the window are two factors to consider when selecting between bright light, medium light and low light plants. Here's how to use the "window exposure" method:

    1. Determine your window direction, either north, south, east or west.
    2. Measure how far from the window you will be placing your plant.
    3. Use the plant data base to select plants which match your light conditions.
    • Windows facing west can grow bright light plants four feet from the window, medium light plants five feet away, and low light plants six feet or more away.
    • Windows facing east can grow bright light plants four feet from the window, medium light plants five feet away, and low light plants eight feet or more away.
    • Windows facing north can grow bright light plants one foot from the window, medium light plants four feet away, and low light plants six feet or more away.
    • Windows facing south can grow bright light plants four feet from the window, medium light plants five feet away, and low light plants eight feet or more away.

    Here's an alternative method, the "hand shadow" method, for evaluating your prospective houseplant locations. This is more helpful in rooms with very few windows or in offices without windows:

    • Observe the location where you wish to place a plant, and determine if the light is bright enough to easily read a newspaper or if your hand casts a very distinct shadow. If the answer is "yes," you can grow any "bright light" foliage plants, such as Ficus trees, in that space. Blooming tropical plants such as Kalanchoe will generally need more sun, such as within two feet of a sunny window. "Medium light" is indicated when your hand casts a soft shadow, and "low light" is indicated when there is no shadow from your hand.
    • Compare your notes with the exposure preferences listed on this site.
    • Select plant varieties with exposure preferences that match the light conditions in your home or office.

    Here are the Light Conditions Used to Describe the Plants in our Data Base:
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    • Bright Indirect Light is strong direct light that is diffused or softened by sheer drapes, or it may be the light of direct sun reflected from a white wall. This light might be a little too bright for easy reading. Virtually all houseplants will thrive in this light.
    • Medium Light is found in a light, well-lit room with plenty of windows or bright lamps, but there is no direct bright light from the sun. This would be a good reading light. Many popular houseplants will grow well in this light.
    • Low to Medium Light might be found in corners of the room, beside dark pieces of furniture, or in places well removed from a window. It would be difficult to read in this light. A number of popular houseplants are adaptable to this light and will grow well with careful maintenance.
    • Low Light would describe areas that have very little natural or artificial light. Some highly adaptable houseplants can survive this light condition; careful watering is essential. A select few houseplants will grow in this lighting condition.

    Plant Growth
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    The goal of plant selection for indoor gardening is to place plants in the proper light so the plant will grow properly. With adequate light, indoor plants will grow and flourish lavishly, displaying their natural beauty for many years.

    In less than optimum light many plants will survive for a period, sometimes for years, but certainly will not flourish or bloom. They should not be repotted, and very little water or fertilizer is needed. Plants living "on the edge" will be lost if additional stress occurs, such as from one incident of over-watering.

    Tips For Problem Solving:
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    Sometimes things go wrong when it seems that you've done everything right. Here are some common problems and their solutions:

    • The plant is growing some, but the new leaves are very small.
      This is a sign of too little light. For the plant to produce new, full sized leaves it must receive the proper intensity and duration of light every day. Too little light will produce very little or no new growth, and the plant may eventually die. Plants grown in this weakened state are easily killed by improper watering, temperature shock or other mishap.
    • Plant is growing but the leaves are all growing to one side. Indoor light is often very directional, such as light from a bay window. Since the plant's leaves will grow toward the light, it is necessary to rotate your plants weekly to produce uniform growth.
    • Within a few days of bringing my new plant home, it developed large tan blotches on the leaves nearest to the window.
      Tropical plants sold as houseplants have been grown and acclimated to the reduced light of the average home interior. Placing a houseplant in direct sun will cause sunscald, a type of plant sunburn. To remedy this, either move the plant to a less bright area or draw the drapes or blinds to shade the plant. Most plants will grow out of this condition and the damaged leaves can be trimmed off.
    • My flowering pot plants looked great in the nursery, but they've slowly stopped blooming and haven't bloomed for weeks.
      The most common reason for lack of blooms indoors is a lack of light. African Violets, Begonias and the like need bright reading light to bloom regularly in addition to well drained potting soil, flowering plant fertilizer and regular watering. Even then, they will usually bloom in "cycles" with several weeks in between with no blooms. Some flowering pot plants, such as Poinsettias, Kalanchoes and Chrysanthemums, require the long nights of spring or fall in order to produce blooms. Most Orchids will blooms at the same time each year, but only once per year.
    • The leaves are droopy but I've watered it plenty.
      Overwatering is the number one cause of houseplant failure. Roots need air also, which is not available in soggy soil. Be sure the container has drain holes, use houseplant soil mix (not garden dirt), and check the soil with your fingers regularly; then water when the plant needs it, not on a schedule.

    NOTE: Light duration is as important a factor in site and plant selection as is the light intensity. Lamp light all day may be as equally beneficial for your plants as bright window light is for an hour.

  • Growth Rate
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    Understanding the rate at which a plant grows is important in the planning of your landscape. This useful information can help you visualize the development of your finished landscape.

    • Fast growing plants grow quickly compared to other plants of its same general type.
    • Moderate growing plants grow at an average rate compared to other plants of its same general type.
    • Slow growing plants grow slowly compared to other plants of its same general type.

    The terms "fast," "moderate," and "slow" are relative terms and do not indicate a number of inches per month or feet per year of new growth. Rather, it describes how fast a particular plant grows in comparison to other plants of its same general type. For example, Waxleaf Ligustrum is listed as a fast growing plant, because it grows quickly compared to other shrubs. The Kentia Palm is listed as a slow grower, because it grows slowly compared to most houseplants.

    Remember that all plants have their strengths and weaknesses. Here are some characteristics of these two extreme ends of the plant growth rate scale:

    Fast Growing
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    • Will quickly fill their allotted space, doing the job you intend them to do
    • May be relatively less expensive to purchase due to lower costs to the grower
    • Generally will not live as long as slow-growing plants of the same type
    • May require more maintenance, such as pest control or soft wood pruning
    • May grow larger than you intended, requiring heavy pruning to keep it in bounds
    • Older short-lived specimens may be a detriment to property value
    Slow Growing
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    • May grow well with little or no maintenance
    • Will maintain its mature size for many years, possibly many decades
    • Old specimens are an asset to the property due to their long life expectancy
    • Without proper maintenance, slow growing varieties may never reach their full size
    • Slow growing varieties planted from small containers may take five to ten years before they begin to resemble their mature form

    Visualize Future Growth
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    This growth information can be very helpful in visualizing how your home interior or landscape will look in the future. If you place three feet tall plants of the slow-growing Kentia palms on each side of your fireplace, you will be waiting many years for them to reach the mantle. But if you plant Wisterias at the base of your new arbor, these fast-reach the growing vines will cover the structure with foliage and blooms in a few seasons. Plants described as "moderate" have an average growth rate compared to other plants of that type.

    All of our plant information includes the average, mature height and width of the plant. It can be safely assumed that it will take a number of years, possibly decades, for a slow growing plant to reach its mature size. Conversely, fast growing plants will reach their mature size quickly, possibly in as little as five to ten years.

  • Bloom Season
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    The incredible diversity of flower colors and shapes is further diversified by the range of blooming season. Some plants, like Junipers, have no conspicuous blooms, but many of your favorite landscape and house plants have attractive blooms during all or part of the year. Here are some factors to consider when selecting plants for their bloom season:

    • "Spring" is a relative term - it means different things to different people, because it occurs at different times in different parts of the country. Spring to a southern Californian, Texan or Floridian will be very different from spring to a Minnesotan. Southern folk enjoy spring several months earlier than their northern neighbors.
    • A color theme works best when the specimens of your chosen color bloom together. If you plan a patriotic red, white and blue area, for example, be sure all of your selections bloom at one time.
    • Some gardeners prefer to have something blooming throughout the year. Choose long-blooming varieties that bloom at various times.
    • Keep your flowering plants at their peak with frequent watering, regular fertilizing and removal of spent blooms to encourage rebloom.
    • Don't be afraid to try something new. This year's test plant may become next year's favorite.
  • Category
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    There are many types of plants that are available at your local Home Depot Garden Center. The following descriptions will help you select plants that will fit your landscape and lifestyle.

    • Annuals are plants that grow to maturity, bloom, produce seed, and die within one year or one season. They are wonderful used for masses of color in landscape, mixed borders and container planting. Annuals are often planted two or three times a year: in the spring for early season color, followed by summer blooming varieties that stand up to the heat, and then a fall planting for cool season interest.
      Interestingly, some plants that may be annuals in northern areas are considered perennials in tropical areas of the country. Or some plants that are spring blooming annuals in more southern climates, are summer blooming annuals further north. For example, Pansies are great plants for spring color in Texas, but provide summer color in New York. Popular examples of plants grown as annuals are: Petunias, Impatiens, Marigolds and Zinnias.

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    • Bulbs are a distinct category of perennials grown from a short underground stem surrounded by modified fleshy leaves that protect and store food for use by the plant. Although many types of plants are grown from bulbs, what they all have in common is that they go dormant during some point of the year. Some popular varieties of bulbs are Tulips, Hyacinths, Daffodils and Crocus.
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    • Cactus are part of a large group of succulent plants that originate primarily in the United States. They have fleshy thick stems in many unique forms that are able to store water and use it very sparingly. Cactus are known for their spines and many varieties produce showy flowers. Their size ranges from only inches high to over 60 feet. These are truly low maintenance plants that have something to offer any gardener.
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    • Christmas plants add great seasonal color to the home and landscape. From bright red poinsettias on the mantle, elegant amaryllis and trays of fragrant paperwhites, to traditional "Christmas" trees decorated with your favorite ornaments, your Home Depot Indoor and Outdoor Garden Center has the perfect plants to make your holidays something to treasure.
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    • Floral plants add great color and highlight to any patio, window or sunny area. There are many blooming plants to choose from, many beautifully decorated in colorful containers and wrappings. They can brighten a windowsill or patio corner or be given as gifts to family and friends for special occasions. Florist azaleas, mums and kalanchoes are just a few of the many choices you will find at your local Home Depot Garden Center.
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    • Fruit Trees/Berries These trees are not only valuable for their form, foliage, and exquisite spring blooms, but they produce delicious fruit and berries ideal for fresh eating, baking, beverages, jams and preserves. Many trees with berries also attract birds to the landscape and provide them with food. Berries that hang on to the tree throughout winter add interest to the landscape.
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    • Groundcover/Vine can be any number of low growing perennials, shrubs or vines with spreading or trailing growth habits that produce a relatively even surface. There are varieties that root wherever they touch the ground, and others that send wide spreading branches out from the base of the plant. Some have dense, mat-like forms that can be walked on, but none can withstand the foot traffic of lawns. Popular plants for groundcover use include ivy, periwinkle, Hall's honeysuckle, creeping juniper, new varieties of groundcover roses and some herbs, like creeping thyme and rosemary.

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    • Vines are annual or perennial plants that trail over the ground or climb by twining stems, tendrils, attaching by suckers, or by being artificially tied to a structure, wall or tree trunk. They can be used in as many ways as your creativity will allow; to cover arbors, fences or walls, hide an unattractive view, scramble through trees and shrubs, as ground or bank cover, and to add a vertical element to the landscape, just to name a few. Add some clematis, ivy, passionflower, honeysuckle or some climbing roses to your shopping cart the next time you're at Home Depot Garden Center.
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    • Perennials are a diverse group of mostly non-woody plants that live for more than two years. They grow through the same phases as annuals, but they go dormant in the winter after producing seed instead of dying. The blooming season may last from a week to over a month. After flowering, the plant may put out new growth for the next year or it dies down, almost disappearing until it puts out new growth next spring. Unlike annuals, they do not have to be dug up and replaced each year.

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    • Roses are considered by many to be the queen of all flowers. Few flowers can surpass the timeless beauty, color and exquisite fragance of a rose. It is indeed the world's most popular flower.
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    • Floribundas produce free flowering clusters of medium size blooms on each stem. They are superb mixed into an informal perennial border.
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    • Grandifloras are also produced in clusters but the blooms are larger and the bush tends to be taller in habit. Individual stems within the cluster are often suitable for cutting.
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    • Hybrid Teas are the classic, long-stemmed beauties that first come to mind when thinking of the elegance and romance of roses. There is usually one large bloom per stem, unfurling from a perfect, urn-shaped bud. This is the number one rose for floral bouquets.
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    • Shrub Roses make excellent flowering hedges. They are important in the modern landscape because they are hardy, disease resistant and easy to grow. From groundcover to hedge form, single, semi-double to double blooms, they bring versatility and beauty to any garden.
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    • Climbing Roses produce long, supple stems that are delightful for adding vertical color to walls, fences, arbors and narrow spaces. Most will not climb on their own, but can be easily tied to an upright support. They most often produce flowers in clusters.
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    • Miniature Roses generally look like smaller replicas of hybrid tea roses and are similar in every respect but size. Their size ranges from six inches to two feet in height. They are wonderful plants for edging, mixed borders and containers. If given enough light in a sunny window, they may also make excellent houseplants.
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    • Shrubs are also woody plants, but are usually smaller than trees, naturally branching at ground level. Interestingly, some shrubs are taller than some trees, and they can be pruned to look like trees. In terms of size, shrub size ranges from just a few inches tall to multi-stemmed giants that reach over your head. They're stiff or pliable like vines, upright or spreading, deciduous or evergreen. Some are valued for their foliage alone, while others accent the landscape with their dazzling floral display. Breathtaking fall foliage color is the highlight of other varieties.
      Whatever the form or function, shrubs are designed to be permanent members of the landscape. Attractive shrubs make all the difference between an average, and a spectacular landscape.
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    • Trees are tall, woody plants, usually with a single trunk, topped by a leafy crown of foliage. They are the most valuable elements of any landscape, adding structure, character and form. Trees are either evergreen or deciduous. Evergreen trees retain their foliage all year. Most evergreens have needled foliage, like pines, firs and spruces. However, there are broadleaf evergreens such as southern magnolias and hollies. Deciduous trees drop their leaves in the fall. They are the source of glorious orange, red and yellow fall foliage color. Oaks and maples are popular examples.
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    • Tropical/Houseplant A large selection of houseplants and other tropicals can be found at any Home Depot Garden Center. There are varieties for low, medium and high light indoor areas as well as those that will take various degrees of sun and outdoor temperature. Tropicals add great seasonal and portable color on patios, in the home or in warm season landscapes. A plant that may be a landscape plant in south Florida, can become an ideal patio or houseplant in Maine. A plant that provides spring color in Texas, may be a summer bloomer in Pennsylvania. They are versatile, easy to grow additions to the indoor or outdoor garden.
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    • Turf/Sod A well manicured, lush green lawn is the unifying factor in any landscape. Several types of lawn grass are available to fit your style and landscape conditions. From Bermuda, St. Augustine, Rye to Zoysia there is a variety for sun, shade, cool or warm season, high or low rainfall areas.
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    • Vegetables Few experiences can match that of eating vegetables picked fresh from your own garden. Your local Home Depot Garden Center can provide you with seeds and starter plants for a range of cool and warm season vegetable growing. Broccoli, spinach, lettuce, peas and tomatoes (actually a fruit) are just some of the many veggies available. Consult your local Home Depot Nursery professional for details on specific planting instructions for your area.
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    • Water Plants are the icing on the cake for any water garden. They add stunning color, and cool the water by providing shade from the sun. In addition, some varieties can be used to keep the water clear and add oxygen to the water. Their roots can also provide shelter for newly hatched fish. The most popular water plant is the water lily, but others such as Cattail, Anacharis, Bog Arum and Arrowhead are also available to add interest to any water garden.
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  • Evergreen
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    Whether or not your plants have foliage in the winter is an important design consideration. Since part of the glorious diversity of the landscape involves foliage changes from season to season, we need to use this information to maximize the impact of our landscape in all seasons. Selecting "Evergreen" in your search will bring up all of the evergreen plants in the data base. Here's a description of the three main terms that describe the foliage seasons:

    • Evergreen - doesn't mean "keeps its leaves forever." Rather, it never drops all of its leaves at once. It will shed some of its leaves each season and put on some new ones. Often the old leaf is pushed off the stem by the new leaf bud. The result is that it will appear full of foliage all year round.
    • Deciduous - has leaves that do not persist from one growing season into the next. That means that all of the leaves bud out in spring then mature in summer. As fall approaches with its cooler temperatures, a physical change takes place in the deciduous leaf. Its green chlorophyll starts to die, revealing other colors in the leaf. It stops taking up water and begins to dry up, and it begins to separate itself from the main plant. This progresses until it and all of the other leaves have fallen off of the plant. The plant will remain bare until the warmth of spring signals the start of the process again.
    • Semi-Deciduous - an odd word. You may ask, "How can it be both?" The answer is that semi-deciduous plants will keep most of their foliage all year long and from year to year unless severe cold weather causes all of the leaves to fall. A good example of this is Abelia. It will drop some of its leaves in winter, but only in severely cold weather will it drop all of its leaves.

    Design Tips

    Here are some suggestions on how to use this foliage diversity in planning your landscape:

    • Consider where in the landscape you prefer to have foliage all year round. This may include hedges used for security and screening, background plantings or around the foundation of your home.
    • While being evergreen may be an admirable characteristic, many deciduous plants make spectacular blooming displays in spring or summer. Don't forget to check that important characteristic.
    • Some deciduous plants make attractive silhouettes in winter, especially when viewed against the sky, a wall or other uniform background.
    • Often the best shrub border contains a mixture of evergreen plants to form the foundation of the planting, while the deciduous plants put on a flower show.
    • Deciduous trees make ideal shade trees for use on the south or southwest sides of your home. Their summer foliage will shade the house from the hot sun in summer; then, after the leaves have dropped in fall, the sun will warm your home in winter.
  • Fall Foliage Color
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    Each autumn, we wait with eager hearts to see a show no Broadway play could match. It is nature's spectacular show of dazzling fall foliage color.

    Many areas of the country are home to some striking cool season color. During the fall season of each year, once lush green  leaves "turn" vibrant red, rich burgundy, brilliant yellow, exciting orange or elegant purple. Each tree or shrub has its own palette of colors, which can still change from year to year.

    Many areas of the country are home to some striking cool season color. During the fall season of each year, once lush green  leaves "turn" vibrant red, rich burgundy, brilliant yellow, exciting orange or elegant purple.

    Each tree or shrub has its own palette of colors, which can still change from year to year.

    The best foliage color occurs when the fall daytime temperature is mild and the evenings are cool and crisp, but not below freezing. If fall temperatures are too warm, for an extended period of time, the color may not be as intense or the fall season may be delayed.

    As fall approaches the amount of daylight is shortened. This tells a deciduous tree or shrub that it is time to start shedding their leaves. The green color begins to disappear and the other foliage colors, which were always present, begin to show through. The leaves do not actually change colors, rather, those "fall" colors, once hidden, are now revealed in a gradual, greatly anticipated display.

    Some of the most popular trees and shrubs for fall color are Sugar Maple, American Sweetgum, Winged Euonymus (Burning Bush), Sumac, Japanese Barberry, Pin Oak, Red Oak and Callery Pear. They are available at many Home Depot Garden Centers.

  • Bloom Color
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    From tiny to titanic, flower blooms are a delight to the senses. Found in every color of the rainbow, natural and man-made landscapes display colors from beige to black and everything in between.

    The function of flower color in the natural world is to attract bees, butterflies and other pollinators for the purpose of reproduction. But to the human eye, flower color creates the opportunity for much visual diversity in the landscape. When planning your landscape, here are some tips to consider when making flower color decisions:

    • Flower colors in your garden may vary slightly from what you see in the catalog or on a plant tag. They may even vary from the flowers in your neighbor's yard. Overall plant vigor, which can be effected by a particular type of fertilizer or soil type, effects flower color.
    • Temperatures at night, when plants grow the most, greatly effect bud formation and eventually flower color. Higher temperatures often produce softer or weaker colors while milder temperatures generally produce the richest, most vivid colors.
    • Soil pH, whether it's acidic, basic or neutral, has a distinct effect on flower color. For the truest, richest colors, provide the plant with the soil type and pH that it prefers.
    • Some gardeners prefer that most of their flowers bloom at the same time, such as late spring, so as to produce a massive display for a time. Others like to have a little of something blooming all of the time.
    • Color themes can create different responses in the viewer, based on the use of various colors in the landscape. For example, warm colors, like red and orange advance, meaning they grab your attention and create visual excitement in the landscape. Cool colors, like blue and lavender, recede, meaning they stay more in the background and produce a gentle, calming effect in the landscape.
    • Another popular plan is to concentrate on a single color range, such as all pinks or all blues. A patriotic theme would be all reds, whites and blues.
    • Foliage colors are a consideration also. Greens range from light green to blue-green and dark green, sometimes with white or golden variegation thrown in for seasoning.

    A few tips on improving floral performance would be in order:

    • Plants generally need a little more water while flowering. When a plant wilts, the flowers are among the first to go, so keep your blooming plants properly watered while they're showing off in your garden.
    • Use an organic or commercial fertilizer with more phosphorus, the middle number of the fertilizer ratio on the bag. Flowers like plenty of phosphorus. Follow label directions when applying plant fertilizer.
    • Most blooming plants need at least a little sun, and many need full sun in order to bloom profusely. Check the plant section of this data base, our printed Planting Guides or the plant tag for specific information on how much sunlight your plant prefers. See also the informative section of this data base on Sun Exposure Preferences.
  • Foliage Color
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    When most people think of leaves, they think green. While this is true for the most part, there are a multitude of attractive foliage colors that accent and add highlight to any landscape.

    Many trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants have year-round foliage color other than green or have green foliage only at certain times during the year. Purple-Leaf Plum for example, has rich burgundy foliage year-round. Japanese Maple has rich red new foliage, which then turns green during the summer months, to become vibrant red, orange or yellow in the fall.

    Variegated foliage is any foliage that is striped, edged or otherwise marked with a color different from the basic color. Plants with variegated foliage catch the eye and add interest to the landscape. Because of their striking two-toned color, care must be taken in blending them in with other plantings. Some examples are: Variegated Ligustrum, Tricolor Dogwood, Aureo-marginata Hosta.

  • Special Feature
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    Each plant has its own special purpose, charm, style, or element of excitement that beckons to us. Something about it catches our attention and delights our senses in some way.

    Every plant has some unique feature that adds interest to the landscape. Some with their fragrance, or by bringing birds and butterflies to the garden. Others add interest to the winter landscape with bright red berries, stem color or unusual form.

    Some examples of special features are:
    • Border
    • Butterfly
    • Climbing
    • Color Accent
    • Cut Flower
    • Foundation
    • Fragrant
    • Hedge
    • Hummingbird
    • Mass Planting
    • Rock Garden
    • Screen
    • Specimen

    A Border is a garden area that can be accessed from three sides. The fourth side is often backed by a wall. The border can contain any number of plants, and either a grouping of the same plant or many different kinds of plants. If the planting area is accessible from all four sides it is called a Bed.

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    Butterfly Few things are more enjoyable to watch in the garden than butterflies. They are like fleeting works of art that give us a brief glimpse of their beauty before they leave to delight another garden. Fortunately for us, there are many plants we can add to our landscape to actually attract butterflies. Butterfly Bush, Passion Vine, Roses, Spirea, Salvia, Columbine and Sweet Pea, just to name a few.

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    Climbing plants add vertical interest and color to the landscape. They can be used to cover a wall, fence, arbor or trellis. Some climb without need of additional support, like Honeysuckle Vine and Wisteria. Others need to be tied or staked, like climbing roses.

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    Color Accent plants add interesting focal points throughout the garden. This is particularly true with foliage plants that add seasons of exciting color. From boldly variegated hostas, to silvery Lamb's Ear to Purple-Leaf Plum trees, they attract the eye and add pizazz to even the simplest garden setting.

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    Cut Flower plantings serve two purposes. They add color and fragrance to the landscape and to your indoor environment. In addition many flowers that are suitable for floral arrangements are also great for potpourri and other crafts. Popular plants for cutting are Roses, Lilies, Daisies, Delphinium, Zinnias, Lilac, Iris and Gardenias.

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    Foundation plantings were once planted around the perimeter of the home to hide the high, unsightly cement foundations. The need for foundation plantings has decreased with changes in the way homes are built, but there are still shrubs and ground covers that are great for softening the look of any home and blending it in with the surrounding landscape. Some ideal plants for foundation planting are Azaleas, Hydrangeas, Hollies, Boxwood, Junipers, Euonymus, Roses and Nandinas.

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    Fragrant trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals are some of the most highly prized plants in the landscape. The scent of honeysuckle or gardenia carried on a gentle breeze is one of the sweetest, simple pleasures of life. Place these plants near doors, windows and patios, so their fragrance can be enjoyed often. Roses, Lilac, Magnolia, Jasmine, Wisteria, Lilies, Hyacinths, Sweet Alyssum are just a few fragrant examples.

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    Hedge plantings provide privacy and a sense of boundary to the landscape. Shrubs that have dense foliage and a compact form are best suited for hedge plantings. There are many flowering shrubs that not only serve a useful function, but also add color and beauty. Boxwood, Shrub Roses, Azaleas, Hollies, Privet, Pittosporum, Euonymus, Oleander and Podocarpus make great hedges.

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    Hummingbirds add whimsy to the garden. By choosing flowering plants to provide the nectar they need, you can attract these tiny birds to your landscape. Some hummingbird favorites are Trumpet Vine, Honeysuckle, Butterfly Bush, Fuchsia, Lilac, Foxglove, Columbine, Zinnias and Bee Balm.

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    Mass Planting is when you plant large groups of the same plant together in a bed or border. This provides a broad band of color, form and texture in the landscape. It brings an element of simplicity and elegance into any garden design.

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    Rock Gardens usually contain natural looking rock groupings and rocky, often dry soil conditions. Plants that are suitable for this environment usually have a compact or creeping growth habit. They are often drought, heat or cold tolerant. Mugho Pine, Heather, Dwarf Juniper, Alpine Aster, Yarrow, Coral Bells, Thyme and Stonecrop are good plants for rock gardens.

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    Screen plants are usually densely foliaged evergreen plants that create a natural living barrier or boundary. It is a great way to hide an unsightly view. The following plants work well as screens: Columnar Juniper, Holly, Arborvitae, Oleander and Photinia.

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    Specimen plants make a bold statement all by themselves. Either through an unusual form, texture or color, they are planted as a focal point in the landscape. A few stunning examples are Ornamental Flowering Fruit Trees, Maple and Oak trees, Blue Atlas Cedar, Butterfly Bush, Peony.

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    Look for plants with these special features at your local Home Depot Garden Center and you can be sure to add years of enjoyment to your landscape.


Home Depot Product Numbers

You can easily use the Home Depot Garden Center to find information about plant purchases you have already made from Home Depot. Each plant purchased from Home Depot will have a tag attached that includes brief information and tips about that particular plant. You will find a number in the lower right corner on the back of the tag (the side without the plant picture). This number can be typed into the "Product Number" field on the plant search page with no other search criteria to retrieve more detailed information on your new plant!


Hardiness Zones

Cold hardiness is a very important consideration in the selection of plants for the landscape. Using this information will help insure that your new plants will survive and flourish for years to come.

Plant Selection and the USDA Hardiness Zone Map:
In a significant effort to provide gardeners and nursery professionals alike with a common language for discussing plant hardiness, The United States Department of Agriculture determined that a plant's level of cold hardiness is of prime importance to that plant's success or failure in the landscape. Using data collected over a 12-year period from thousands of sites around the country, the USDA has created a "cold hardiness map." This map is now the main tool used throughout the nursery industry to describe the cold tolerance of a wide range of plants.

The United States and Canada have been divided into eleven zones, with each zone representing a ten degree range of temperatures. So, each zone number indicates a specific cold hardiness temperature. Professional landscapers, growers, instructors and other nursery professionals have observed the winter performance of a wide range of plants over the years and have assigned a hardiness zone to virtually all plants. By referring to the map and by knowing which zone or Zip Code you live in, you can easily select hardy plants for your particular landscape. The USDA map information is converted into degrees Fahrenheit and is shown under "Cold Hardiness" in the searchable database of this web site.

How to Use the Cold Hardiness Information:
First, you must know which USDA hardiness zone you are in. Refer to the USDA Hardiness Zone Map to locate your town, or enter your postal Zip Code in the search box, then note the zone you are in. Next, enter your zone number as one of the search criteria in the data base search feature. The results are plants that will survive your average winters.

How to Use Plants That are not Winter Hardy in Your Area:
Plants warmer than your zone are valuable selections, also. They are ideal for temporary or seasonal use in flower beds, patio containers, hanging baskets and other uses in the landscape for the warm season only. This group includes most annuals, many warm climate perennials and all of the tropical plants that we've come to depend on for lifting our spirits and enhancing our environment during the warmer months of the year.

Some of these are "tender perennials," like Hibiscus and Lantana, which technically are perennials but are not very cold hardy. These can be overwintered if given winter protection. If properly protected, they will grow and bloom year after year. Winter protection may include moving the potted plant or hanging basket indoors for the winter, heavily mulching the roots and main stems, and growing the plant near a south-facing wall which protects from the north wind and catches the heat of the winter sun.

As another example, let's say you live in zone 8, which has an average winter low temperature of 10°F. Plants with a cold hardiness of "20° to 10°F" will normally survive winters in your area. Plants listed at "0° to -10°F" will also survive your average winter. Plants listed as having a cold hardiness of "30° to 20°F" will probably be damaged in your average winter and may be killed if not protected before cold weather sets in.

Plants to Protect From Winter Damage:
In general, the woody, perennial plants are considered permanent residents in your landscape and may need winter protection. Some plants, such as Roses grown in the more northern states, are worthy of winter protection so their blooms may be appreciated year after year. Other plants are valuable specimens but are decidedly not hardy and will need special attention.

For example, tropical Hibiscus in patio containers or Bougainvillea hanging baskets may be kept in a warm sunny spot indoors through the winter, then moved back outdoors in spring. Other non-hardy plants, particularly annuals and most hanging basket plants, like Begonias, are often enjoyed in flowering borders or containers for the season then discarded at season's end. Perennial bulbs, tubers and corms that are tender, such as Caladiums and Cannas, are another consideration. Cannas are easily stored through the winter while Caladiums often are not.

If in doubt regarding the need for winter protection of any of your plants, feel free to consult your Home Depot nursery professional.

The USDA Hardiness Zone Map is a valuable tool but not a guarantee of success. Record cold temperatures may cause damage to previously undamaged plants; and other factors, such as wind chill, soil moisture and overall plant health play a role in winter survival.

NOTE: By considering the various features of your landscape and by using the important information provided with every Home Depot plant, home gardeners in all parts of the country are able to make excellent landscape choices. If you have additional questions, many useful books are available, and your Home Depot garden center professionals are always ready to help.


Multiple Zone Possibility

When entering your zip code into the search engine, you may be presented with choices on which zone you wish to view. This is because a zip code can cover a large geographical area and may actually cross over into multiple zones. Most, if not all, plants that are in a zip code area of multiple zones will in most likelihood grow quite well in any of the selected zones. If you wish to further define the zone that your location is in, go to the USDA web site for more information.